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Opened in 1896, Bouillon Chartier (in Paris’ 9th arrondissement) carries on the well-oiled tradition of affordable dining. Head waitress Fati is on hand to deliver service with meticulous precision. Julien de Rosa/AFP

How Paris’ working‑class dining experience is reshaping restaurant economics in France

Bouillons are back! What’s behind the French revival of these cheap and cheerful eateries that started out as canteens for Paris’ hungry, blue-collar workers?

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